There's no place on earth like the South of France, with its beautiful cliffs and beaches and abundant history and culture. In Juan-les-Pins, for example, guests at Le Méridien Garden Beach are just moments from the source of one of the most gripping tales in literary history. The nearby island of Lérins is the home of the Musée de la Mer, a museum dedicated to the mysteries and treasures of the sea that occupies the oldest section of Fort Royal. Visitors should start with a tour of the basement prison where the notorious Man in the Iron Mask was incarcerated for eleven years, a tale made famous by the writer Alexandre Dumas. No one is is really sure who this mysterious prisoner was, or if he even wore his trademark iron mask all the time (in fact, some sources claim the mask was velvet) but most agree that the unfortunate soul had probably run afoul of King Louis XIV, and back then you just didn't do that. (Don't worry, the mean Sun King isn't around anymore.) After pondering the vagaries of 17th and 18th century French society, head upstairs to take in the spectacular views of the sea from atop the fort. On a good day you can catch the scent of fresh eucalyptus, which grows in abundance on the island. Elsewhere in the museum, a collection of Roman antiquities recovered from shipwrecks might inspire a view budding treasure hunters out there, while shutterbugs will appreciate rotating photography exhibits that frame Mediterranean travel in a beautiful light. It's all so nice, you might just forget that Cannes is only ten minutes away.
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Discover the Legend of the Man in the Iron Mask in Juan-les-Pins
Tuesday August 26, 2008John Armleder and Jacques Garcia at The Centre Culturel Suisse in Paris
Monday July 28, 2008
Anyone who ever doubted that interior decoration was art should pay a visit to my husband's grandmother's house. Whenever an idea catches her fancy she acts on it. Whimsically painted kitchen cupboards, an irreverent wallpaper border, and an antique clock turned headboard are just a few of her recent creations. Swiss artist John Armleder has been contemplating ornamentation as a conceptual medium for a while. For his latest exhibition, he teamed up with world-renowned interior decorator Jacques Garcia to create a series of wonderfully outfitted rooms at the Centre Culturel Suisse in Paris.
Myriad homes, hotels, and restaurants around the globe, but particularly in Paris bare Garcia's exquisite mark. The French decorator incorporates everything from Zen minimalism to Napolean III decadence into his interiors, and for this exhibition he spared no detail. Helmut Newton photographs hang in rooms with sumptuous velvet settees, a tiger skin rug, and dozens of art books visitors are encouraged to peruse. The exhibition, which runs through September 28, is just over a mile from The Westin Paris. Overlooking the Tuileries gardens, the hotel itself is a grand work of skilled interior design where modern classics mix with Louis XIV majesty.
[image source: e-flux.com]
Wine Pairings in Reverse in Paris
Thursday June 5, 2008
At most restaurants, the sommelier chooses the wine to match the meal you ordered, but at Il Vino d'Enrico Bernardo, just across the Seine from the Westin Paris, you choose the wine — and the kitchen prepares a meal to match it. Its eponymous owner/master sommelier took the unusual step of listing only wines on the menu so as to put what's in the glass at the forefront while also hopefully making wine less intimidating — you don't have to worry about what wine would go best with which dish, so you can swirl your glass and enjoy the evening. There are several tasting menus available, the most popular of which is a "double blind" tasting: both the wines and the food are chosen for you. The menu changes every two weeks, so you never know what you might get.
If you'd like to put together a pairing of your own, head to the huge wine store Lavinia, two blocks from the hotel, where a lunch-only restaurant on the second floor will happily serve a bottle you bought downstairs without a corkage fee.
A 21st Century Tour of the Louvre
Friday April 18, 2008While most of us have already plodded our way through the expansive galleries of the Louvre to get a glimpse of its most famous lady, the Mona Lisa, we can't really claim to know all that much else about the museum's 35,000 piece collection now can we? It would take a lifetime of exploration to truly get to know all of the masterpieces that fill the former palace. But we'll take up a challenge when we see one. And with the introduction of the museum's new "high tech tour guide" we're one step closer to success.
Touted as "the first handheld multimedia player designed specifically for museums and art galleries," the XP-Vision plots out several different routes, tailored to taste. Tours are customized for both adults and children, and lead visitors through the 60,000 square meter space, like a GPS. But instead of the "turn left now" commands that your TomTom likes to bark, you're instead guided along by music, images, and informative voices that reveal details only an expert would know. And if you ever fall astray among the Michelangelos and Botticellis, a virtual map points out your exact location, which is never very far from your home base, The Westin Paris. Within walking distance of the museum, the magnificent hotel is currently offering an "Explore Paris" promotion that includes a pair of tickets to the Louvre when you book your stay.
Free Paris!
Monday March 24, 2008France is covered in beautiful bastions of art and culture. But all too often visitors only seek out the top hits, the Louvre, the d'Orsay, the Pompidou... leaving some of the nation's most special museums empty, their collections rarely seen. All that's about to change, or so they hope. As part of a little experiment to attract more visitors to the nation's lesser known museums, fourteen of them are free through June.
Paris is home to three of these little gems which lie about two miles apart from each other. Geographically they form a perfect isosceles triangle around The Westin Paris, which itself lies about a mile away from each museum. Sounds like some Da Vinci Code stuff going on here. Anyway, guests of the luxurious hotel can easily hit up all three. The Musée des Arts et Métiers is fascinating and unique. It's dedicated to scientific inventions like Foucault's Pendulum, and features an exhibition on Benjamin Franklin. Cool! The Musée National du Moyen Age includes exceptional tapestries like The Lady and the Unicorn, and other enchanting objects from the Middle Ages. And the Guimet Musée National des Arts Asiatiques hosts an array of Buddhas, vases, and more from Egypt, China and beyond. Through April 21 highlights of its collection are on view in the exhibition "From India to Japan - 10 Years of the Guimet." If you stay at the Hotel Prince de Galles - Paris Champs Elysees, this museum is only about a 300 meter stroll away. I can't wait to find out the conclusion to the experiment. My hypothesis? Record sales at the gift shop!
Food & Wine Romance By TGV In France
Thursday February 14, 2008The TGV, France's high-speed train service, is a marvelous way to tour the country — taking you from the metropolis of Paris, through Champagne and Alsace to lovely Strasbourg, near the Germany border, in an hour and a half. The train passes through the wine regions of Champagne and Alsace, meaning there are plenty of wine-related adventures to be had along the way.
Stay at the Sheraton Paris Airport Hotel and you've got a head start out of town. First stop is Champagne-Ardenne; the station is in Reims, where you can tour the bubbly at the wineries of Piper-Heidsieck and Pommery and have dinner at Les Crayères, chef Didier Elena's two Michelin star chateau. For further wine adventures, rent a car and visit Moët in nearby Epernay.
The stop in Colmar offers a tasting of Alsatian Reisling and light Sylvaner at Maison Martin Jund. Once in Strasbourg, a special TGV menu [PDF] awaits at Au Crocodile. The multi-course meal includes dishes inspired by the cities along the line from Paris to Zurich, such as foie gras-stuffed Chartreuse quail with shredded green cabbage in Madeira sauce and a dessert shaped like the train itself.
Get the Royal Treatment At Versailles
Friday February 8, 2008Guests at the Trianon Palace & Spa, a Westin Hotel, already know what it's like to be treated like royalty, but to see how actual French royalty lived back in the 17th and 18th centuries, take a tour of the nearby Palace of Versailles. King Louis XIV moved into this opulent palace in 1682 and lived here quite comfortably until his death in 1715, completing one of the longest reigns of any monarch in history. The Château de Versailles remained the seat of the monarchy until the royal family returned to Paris in 1789, but it's been kept up quite nicely in the years since, becoming a major attraction for people looking to spend a few peaceful hours wandering the halls like a member of the House of Bourbon. Visitors today have an added attraction: the Hall of Mirrors is once again open to the public following a three-year restoration project. Gaze at yourself admiringly in one of 357 mirrors, and appreciate the one thousand square meters of painted and sculpted decorations by Charles Le Brun, first painter to the king. The castle's ornate (some might say ostentatious) interior is only the half of it: after the tour, make sure to take a stroll through the royal gardens and groves, which feature acres of winding pathways, beautiful plants, and some of the earliest fountains ever created. Wander around aimlessly if you like, or else follow the itinerary written by the Sun King himself called The Way to Present the Gardens of Versailles. Any way you experience it, Versailles provides a vivid look at what life was like for the royals at their most powerful, and it's an awfully nice escape from the modern world.
Black Paris Tours Trace French African History
Monday February 4, 2008When Ricki Stevenson was 3-years-old she saw Josephine Baker perform in Los Angeles. Now the African-American historian and journalist leads visitors to the Montparnasse theater where the iconic dancer graced the stage. Stevenson founded the fabulous "Black Paris Tours" a decade ago, providing the only in-depth look at the French capital's robust African history. Starting on the Champs-Elysées, Stevenson guides you to major sites like the Arc de Triomphe where freed American slaves enjoyed a liberating view of the city; and Sacre Coeur, where black artists in the 1920s and 30s gathered. But she also reveals hidden spots like the one where a statue of Alexandre Dumas, whose mother was Haitian, stands; a hotel where W.E.B. Du Bois hosted the Pan African Congress; and the last jazz club clarinetist Sidney Bechet opened.
Throughout the tour Stevenson shares her encyclopedic knowledge, describing the atmosphere that existed when famed photojournalist Gordon Parks and author Richard Wright hung out, and why Thomas Jefferson paid frequent visits to the home of his late wife's black half-sister, Sally Hemings. Stevenson calls the 18th arrondissement "Little Africa." She guides you through the market area filled with fruits and spices, where women wrapped in colorful prints fill their baskets. After the full day (90 Euros), or half day (50 Euros) tour comes to an end, I know the perfect place to discuss everything you just saw and heard; Le Méridien Etoile’s jazz club, Lionel Hampton. Best thing is, your bed's right upstairs. And after all that traipsing around Paris, you'll be ready for it.
Les Patisseries du Paris
Tuesday January 29, 2008In Paris, you need to acquaint yourself with the delights the City of Light can offer, and its patisseries are a gateway to that wonderment. A five minute walk from the Westin Paris is La Durée, a patisserie well known for its ever-changing selection of macarons, brightly colored cookies filled with flavored cremes or jams. You should also check out chocolatier Pierre Hermé, where black truffle macarons (as in the coveted tuber, not the chocolate) recently made their enthusiastic debut.
A relative newcomer to the patisserie scene is Pain de Sucre, but its lemon tart and other treats have been turning heads. And stop by Aux Délices de Manon features an elegant tea room in the former residence of Robespierre.
By the way, there are two books worth picking up to make your Parisian culinary experience even sweeter: Eating & Drinking in Paris, which provides English translations for common French menu items, and the Michelin Guide to restaurants.
Paris Fashion With Christian LaCroix
Friday December 14, 2007Couturier Christian Lacroix knows a thing or two about fashion. He debuted his first collection twenty years ago, and quickly made a name for himself. Literary masters like Julien Gracq and Joseph Delteil; the British elegance of Cecil Beaton; the outrageous nightlife of 1970s Paris; and 19th century issues of La Mode Illustree, discovered in his Grandmother's Arles attic all contributed to a stylistic stew of inspiration that influenced an oeuvre of exuberant colors, embellishments of lace and tulle, and swept up hair styles festooned with a rhinestone brooch, or feather plume. "History and revolution" Lacroix says, are the basis of his work.
The designer, who studied art history at the Ecole de Louvre, takes his unique brand of historical fashion expertise to Paris' Musee de la Mode et du Textile. Located at 107 rue de Rivoli, the museum lies adjacent to the Louvre and can be reached from your hotel, the Westin Paris, via a stroll through the Tuileries. Lacroix's retrospective of French fashion titled "Histoires de Mode", features four hundred exquisite evening gowns, wedding dresses, cocktail frocks, and business suits, by Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and more. On display through April 20, 2008 it's the result of one year Lacroix spent rummaging through the museum's collection, which dates from the 18th century. A large selection of his own designs join this lavish profusion of the couture craft. Fashion enthusiasts of all stripes will go gaga.
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